Dog toys are not just a luxury for your dog, they are necessary. They help fight boredom and separation anxiety, they help your dog get the exercise he needs, they are a good replacement for improper behavior, and they are fun! However, you have to keep an eye on your dog’s toys so they do not become hazardous to your dog’s health.
Make it a habit to keep all your dog’s toys in one place, so you can periodically examine them for wear and cleanliness. You can even teach your dog a “put your toys away” command, which is a fun way for you and your dog to tidy the house together. A dog Toy Box is great for this.
Toys to Toss
Regularly inspect your dog’s toys for signs of excessive wear. Any toys which are significantly smaller than they were when they were new should be thrown out, as should any toys which your dog has been obviously eating. Stuffed toys that have been ripped apart should be thrown out, as should toys with dangling string or small parts. Toys with an especially foul odor, even after washing in hot water should be tossed as well.
Cleaning Nylon and Rubber Toys
You can use a Toy Cleaning Brush or old toothbrush to remove excess grime from nylon and rubber toys, and you can wash them by hand with dish soap and hot water. You can also throw these toys in the dishwasher on the hottest cycle with no detergent. The hot water and pressure will remove grime and sterilize the toy. Check the toy’s packaging, or contact the manufacturer to be sure it is safe to wash in the dishwasher.
Cleaning Stuffable Toys
Your dog’s Kongs and other stuffable toys should be washed after every time you stuff them with food. Food particles work their way in to all the nooks and crannies of these toys and can harbor tons of dangerous bacteria. Use dish soap, hot water and a toy cleaning brush or old toothbrush to de-grime your dog’s treat toys. Most of these toys can be washed on the top rack in your dishwasher as well, which will truly sanitize the toy. Check the toy’s packaging, or contact the manufacturer to be sure it is safe to wash in the dishwasher.
Cleaning Soft/Plush Toys
Soft toys, like rope toys can also be put in the dishwasher on the hot cycle. You can sterilize them even more thoroughly by wetting them and putting them in the microwave for a full minute. Be careful removing these toys from the microwave; they will be extremely hot. Again, check the toy’s packaging, or contact the manufacturer to be sure it is safe to wash in the dishwasher or microwave.
Most stuffed animal toys can be put in the washing machine, and some can even be put in the dryer. My personal principle for my dog’s stuffed toys is, if it’s not sturdy enough to hold up in the washer and dryer, it isn’t sturdy enough for my Beagle anyway.
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Dog Toy Maintenance
Choosing the Perfect Dog Bed
Dogs seek a comfy place to catch their Z’s just like we do, and often this is at the expense of our good night’s sleep. Purchasing your pooch a bed of his own will help to keep him out of yours, and if you pick a bed that your dog will really use, it will keep him and his hair off the rest of your furniture as well. Even if your dog already stays off the furniture, a bed will get him off the cold, hard floor, help him sleep better and longer, and protect his joints as he ages. A good dog bed will also help keep your large-breed dog from developing unsightly and uncomfortable elbow calluses.
But with all the dog beds on the market today, how do you know which one is right for your pup? There are several factors to consider that will help you find a bed your dog will not only use, but one he will adopt as his favorite comfy spot. To find the perfect bed for your pooch, consider why you’re in the market for a dog bed, how your dog prefers to sleep, your dog’s size, and your dog’s special needs.
Why Does My Dog Need a Bed?
Is your dog always outside? A dog house provides a good amount of necessary shelter from the elements, but even in the height of summer there can be chilly nights. Ensure your dog’s comfort out in the back yard with an outdoor heated dog bed.
Does your dog spend a lot of time in his crate? Crate floors are hard and cold, which doesn’t exactly create the coziest environment. While crate training, use a blanket or towel for doggy’s comfort--There will be accidents and it is a lot easier to take a soiled towel out and throw a new one in than to wait until a bed is washed and dried; or you can use a water-proof mat, which can just be wiped down. Once your pup is accident-free, however, a crate mat is a great way to make his crate feel more like home. Older dogs and thin or especially bony dogs will benefit greatly from a crate bed or mat.
Are you constantly on the road? You can give your dog the same comfort he would have at home with a travel bed. Sure, you can throw any dog bed in the back of your car, but who has space for a big, plush bed when the car’s already packed tight? Travel beds fold or roll up to next to nothing so you can always have a comfy spot and a piece of home handy for your jet-setting hound.
Does your dog just insist on taking over your bed? Are you tired of the wear, tear, and dog hair on your furniture? Don’t worry; there are plenty of options for you.
Observe Your Dog
Take note of where and how your pup most often catches his Z’s. This will be your biggest clue to what kind of bed your dog would most appreciate.
Do you often find your dog laying smack dab in the middle of your pillow? Does he curl up dead-center on couch cushions and comfy chairs? Then a pillow bed is a good choice. Pillow beds come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are extremely comfortable, especially for the little dog who thinks he’s a little prince. These beds are not so great for dogs with orthopedic issues, as they do not provide much support. They are, however, fantastic for miniature and toy breeds.
Do you tend to wake up to find that your dog has shimmied himself all the way under the covers? Is it not always apparent that the pile of blankets on the couch is actually your carefully concealed canine? Does your pooch live to snuggle? A nest bed is the right fit for your dog. Nest beds offer your dog a warm and snuggly place to burrow without pulling your throws and stealing the blankets from you at night. They offer comfort and security and are perfect for burrowing breeds like Beagles, Dachshunds and Jack Russell Terriers. These beds are a little harder to get into and out of, and are thus not ideal for older or injured dogs.
Does your dog think he’s people? Do you often open your eyes in the morning to see your pooch looking right back at you with his head on your pillow? Does he like to curl up snug in the corner of the couch? When you’re hanging out with him, watching TV, does he like to snuggle right up against you? Your dog needs a bolster bed. These beds have a firm foam or plush rim that your pooch can snuggle-up against or use as a pillow. Bolster beds come in lots of different designs and orthopedic varieties are available for dogs with arthritis, and older and injured dogs. Otherwise, though, they are great for any breed and any size dog.
Have you tried a pillow, bolster, or nest bed before and your dog still preferred the couch? Is it important to you to maintain a clean design aesthetic in your home? Try a furniture bed. These beds are made to look like real couches and beds, just smaller. They are attractive and durable and are raised to keep your dog out of the bugs and dirt on the floor and away from chilly drafts. There is a furniture bed to match any home style and they are sure to only improve the look of your living room. These beds are not suggested for dogs with arthritis or hip problems as they have to jump up to climb in.
Has your older, injured, arthritic, or overweight dog stopped jumping into bed or on the couch? Is your dog suffering from hip dysplasia or other joint issues? Is your dog skinny or bony? An orthopedic bed is ideal for these issues. Orthopedic beds are filled with firm foam made to evenly distribute weight, lessening stress on joints. These beds prevent pressure sores and calluses and eliminate pressure points, stiffness, and soreness. They are easy to climb into and out of which lessens the stress on your ageing dog’s back and hips. Orthopedic beds are marvelous for greyhounds and whippets, working dogs, ageing dogs, and really, any dog.
Does your tiny dog tend to shiver? Does your pooch insist on sleeping directly between you and your partner for the cozy warmth? Try a heated bed. Heated beds come in indoor and outdoor varieties and are ideal for hairless, short haired and small dogs. They are also wonderful for working dogs, and dogs recovering from injury, as the warmth soothes tired joints and muscles.
Is your dog’s favorite spot in the house a cool stretch of tile, or on top of an AC vent? Is your dog always getting overheated? Does your working dog need a cool spot to rest after the daily grind? Does your dog tend to turn his nose up at other dog beds? Try a cooling bed. Many of these beds are filled with water or gel to keep them cool; and others are made of materials that allow plenty of air flow and draw the heat away from your pooch. If your dog is a floor-sleeper and could use a little cushioning without the warmth, a cooling bed is just perfect. These beds are superb for long or thick haired dogs, and breeds that are easily overheated, like the bulldog.
Does your dog take up more space in the bed than you do? Are you forever coming home to see a stretched out, belly up dog on your couch? A mat or pad is ideal for your dog. They provide maximum space to spread out and are perfect for large dogs that like to sprawl. These beds are great for labs and other large dogs. They don’t require any climbing so they are great for older and injured dogs too.
How Do I Measure My Dog For a Bed?
Choosing the right size bed is important. You want to purchase a quality, long-lasting bed, which is a good investment. However, if you chose the wrong size, you’ll have wasted your money because your dog won’t use it.
Don’t even worry about dragging the cloth tape measure out of your sewing kit, you can just use a piece of string to measure your dog, and measure the string when you’re done. Measure your dog when he is lying down. Lay the string along your dog’s back from the tip of his tail to the tip of his nose. Add ten to twelve inches to this length and you will have the necessary length for your dog’s bed. If your dog really likes to stretch out, add another two or four inches.
Other Things to Consider
Does your dog have an uncontrollable urge to roll in the mud? Make sure the bed you purchase has a removable, machine washable cover. Many beds have zip-off covers so they can be easily removed and thrown in the washer. Also consider purchasing a second cover so your dog’s bed is always available, even when one cover is in the wash.
Does your dog scratch and claw at his bed to get the filling in just the right places? He needs a bed with a durable, thick fabric cover; the best being ripstop nylon. Leather beds are cool, comfortable, and long lasting, but not ideal for scratchy dogs.
Is your dog a flopper? Does he enter the room and collapse dramatically onto his bed? Does he dream big, with lots of flailing about? Is your dog’s bed going to sit on tile or hardwood? He should have a bed with a non-skid bottom. This will keep the bed where it belongs and it won’t scoot out from under your dog while he’s chasing rabbits in dream land.
If you take the time to get to know your dog and his sleeping habits, you’ll have no trouble picking out the best bed for your best friend. If your dog is accustomed to sleeping with you, and doesn’t take immediately to his new bed, be patient. Praise him when he lays in it, and put a treat or toy in it at bedtime to encourage him to use it. It’ll only be a matter of time before he figures out that you bought his bed with his best interests in mind.
The Right Collar for Your Dog
Every dog should wear a collar with an ID tag. But with the hundreds of collars available today, what collar is right for your dog?
Collar Size
First, your dog’s collar should be size appropriate. It may seem cute to put a great big studded collar on your little Yorkie, but it is generally unhealthy to require a small pooch to carry around a heavy, cumbersome collar all day. This can lead to back and neck problems, and a very unhappy pup.
When sizing your pooch for a collar, measure while your dog is standing. Measure the circumference of the dog’s neck where a collar would naturally lie. Insert 2 fingers between the dog’s neck and the measuring tape. This is the length of collar your pup needs. Remember that most collars are adjustable, so when in doubt, go a size up. Puppies grow faster than seems imaginable. Check your puppy’s collar every day to make sure it has not grown too tight.
Nylon Collars
Nylon collars are washable and durable. They are available in tons of colors and styles. They usually feature a D ring and a quick release buckle. Nylon collars are perfect for dogs who like to get dirty, or dogs who spend a lot of time in the water. They are also one of the most affordable collar options, which is helpful if you cant seem to keep your dog from eating his collar.
Leather Collars
Leather collars are probably the most durable and classic style of collar. They are very strong and great for big, strong dogs. If you have an especially big, especially strong dog, try a braided leather collar; they are one of the strongest varieties of collar available.
Rolled leather collars are made especially for long-haired breeds. This kind of collar settles into long hair and prevents the matting that can result from a flat collar. Rolled collars are not preferable for short-haired, or flat coated breeds, as they usually leave a line on your dog’s neck.
Choke Collars
Choke collars are for training purposes only. They should not be your dog’s everyday collar, he should never be left unattended in a choke collar, and he should never be put on a tie-out in a choke collar. This kind of collar can be hugely beneficial to stop pulling when you walk and for other corrective measures, but they should be used with care. To size your dog for a choke collar, measure his neck as described above, and add two and a half to three inches.
When you put a choke collar on your dog, it should form a P when you look at it head on. If it looks like a 9 instead, it is on backwards and will not release properly. This can lead to choking and tracheal damage.
Another form of temporary training collar is the pronged collar. These collars have blunt metal prongs that face in towards the dog’s neck. These are used to prevent pulling in large, strong dogs. Pronged collars should be used carefully. If you are considering purchasing a pronged collar for your dog, talk to a dog trainer or your vet about the proper way to use it so you do not hurt your dog.
Harnesses
Harnesses are perfect for dogs who pull, small dogs, puppies, and dogs with delicate necks. Instead of pulling back on the dog’s neck, the pull is distributed across the dog’s chest, which is much safer. Many vets recommend that puppy owners use only harnesses until their munchkins get older.
Head Collars
Halter-style head collars like the Gentle Leader and the Halti are engineered to place your dog’s attention on you. Rather than pulling back on the neck of the dog like most collars, which causes them to instinctively pull back, these collars pull the dog’s entire head in your direction with even the slightest correction. Instead of a power struggle, your dog’s attention is placed on you.
Although this style of harness goes across your dog’s nose, head collars are not muzzles, and do not serve the purpose of muzzles in any way. In a head collar, your dog will still be able to eat, drink, pant, bark, and bite.
Don't be disturbed if your dog looks miserable in a head collar. Many dogs will struggle dramatically to remove it, but in time they get used to it and begin to recognize the head collar as an indication that it is time for a fun walk.
Reflective and Light-up Collars
If you often walk your dog in the dark, or like to take your dog camping, reflective collars and light up collars are extremely helpful. Some collars have strips of reflective tape sewn on, and others have LED lights installed. This is a fantastic safety feature, which will also help protect you when you are walking at night with your dog.
Basically, as long as your dog has a durable, safe, and properly sized collar, he has what he needs. The rest is a matter of style, taste, and preference.
What bowl is right for my dog?
Between types of food, additional supplements, and kinds of feeders, it seems there are nearly as many options for feeding your dog as there are breeds out there.
Each dog varies from the next in many ways--they have different tastes in food, different nutritional needs, and different physical issues. It is recommended that you feed your dog a high-quality dog food and discuss specific formulas of food and supplements with your vet. But as far as feeders, there is one widely accepted way to feed that literally stands above the others: Elevated feeders, also known as doggie diners, or feeding stations.
There are, of course, plenty of other acceptable options, but they each come with their pitfalls. Stainless steel dog bowls are extremely durable and inexpensive. These bowls are not prone to scratches and are not likely to get chewed up or destroyed by even the most over-zealous pup. Stainless bowls, however, are the most obnoxious noise-wise on hardwood or tile floors. If you have a dog who likes to paw at his bowl, it’s likely that one of these bowls will drive you to distraction eventually. Stainless bowls are also not available in many styles or designs, so you don’t get to let your personality and décor shine through.
Ceramic and stoneware bowls are probably the most creative option. There are hundreds of designs of stoneware bowls, mostly hand painted and therefore unique. There is a stoneware or ceramic bowl out there to suit any interior design. They are also often dishwasher safe, and either way, easy to clean. The problem with ceramic and stoneware bowls, though, is that they are prone to developing tiny, hard-to-see cracks. These cracks can harbor harmful bacteria that can potentially make your dog sick. Ceramic and stoneware bowls are not inherently unsafe, but they should be checked regularly for cracks and chips.
Plastic bowls are easy to clean and offer just as many fun and aesthetically pleasing designs. They are also quite handy for the clumsy owner or playful dog since they are difficult to break, even when dropped from human heights. Some dogs, however, can develop allergies to plastic, resulting in irritated skin on the face and in the mouth. Softer plastic bowls are also attractive as chew toys to some dogs, and usually scratch easily. Bite marks and scratches are apt to fill with harmful bacteria.
Automatic feeders and waterers are handy and great for the dog owner who isn’t home as much as one would like. Little to nothing is ever said against automatic waterers; automatic feeders, on the other hand, can be trouble. Free feeding is unhealthy for most dogs. There is no way to regulate how much your dog eats when you’re not around, this can result in weight problems. Many vets warn against automatic feeders and suggest you only feed your dog a specific amount every day, in person.
The choice recommended by many vets is an elevated feeder. When a dog eats from a bowl directly on the floor, he must bend his head down to reach. This can be uncomfortable for dogs with arthritis or back and neck problems. An elevated feeder allows the dog’s spine to stay more aligned, relieving pain and stiffness. Older dogs are prone to eat less as it is, and they may eat less still if it is painful to do so. An elevated feeder will make your older dog more comfortable, and thus, more likely to eat a sufficient amount. Starting your dog young, with a proper diet from an elevated feeder can help avoid this kind of back and neck problem all together.
When your dog doesn’t have to reach down to the floor to eat and drink, swallowing requires less effort. It’s purely logical that if food and water don’t have to travel up the esophagus, against gravity, the process is easier and more comfortable. Elevated feeders help avoid problems like megaesophagus(decreased or absent movement of the esophagus), bloat (swelling and sometimes twisting of the dog’s stomach), and gas. They help the dog chew more and gulp less which leads to a healthier eating experience.
When dogs drink from regular bowls, they often lift their head to help swallow, leading to a slobbery, wet mess around the bowls. An elevated feeder solves this problem completely. It also discourages your fun-loving pooch from playing in his water bowl, further avoiding messes for you to clean up later.
Most elevated feeders sit on four legs, rather than flush against the floor. When bowls sit directly on the floor, moisture and dog food crumbs collect under the bowl and create a prime environment for mold, mildew, and all manner of crawly critters. This can lead to not only bad smells and bugs in your home, but also allergies and other health issues for your dog.
Elevated feeders often come with, or fit a certain brand of stainless steel or ceramic bowls. With all the available designs of elevated feeders, from simple and sleek to elegant and extravagant, you can use a sturdy, durable, stainless steel bowl and still let your style shine through. Since elevated feeders don’t allow your pup to play with his bowls, this prevents the cracks and chips in ceramic bowls that can make your dog sick, so you can pick a beautiful bowl that’s just right for you.
Doggy diners may cost a little more than a couple of plastic bowls on the floor, but think of it as a one-time expense that not only ensures that your dog will have a happier, healthier life, but with most feeding stations, one that will probably last for the life of your dog.
Friday, March 26, 2010
How To Introduce A New Puppy To Other Pets
Introducing a puppy to the existing pets in a household is accomplished positively if the established house-pet is acknowledged before the puppy is acknowledged.
1. Before bringing puppy home, feed your established pet a partial meal.
2. When you bring the puppy home, bring your pet outside to greet the puppy. If you have a particularly dominant-type pet, arrange this meeting a block or so from your home.
3. Walk the pet with the puppy (however well you can get the puppy to walk!) and let the existing pet sniff the puppy all he wants. Stay outside for forty-five minutes to an hour.
4. Take the pet and puppy into the house and just walk around the house for ten to fifteen minutes, letting everyone get adjusted to a new body in the house.
5. Feed the established pet another partial meal and let puppy watch.
6. Feed the established pet again, and this time put a bowl down for puppy. If the other pet comes to the puppy's bowl, tell him "No." Whenever you feed your animals, feed the older ones first, but make them respect the puppy's bowl.
Teaching Your Dog Swimming The Right Way
Teaching Your Dog Swimming The
If you're looking for a great exercise for your pooch, then teaching your dog swimmingis a fantastic option. Not only is it enjoyable for you both to be out at the beach, or in the pool. But like humans, it will work the heart and the lungs, as well as all of the dog's muscles.
Being in the water is a very supportive environment, and this is especially good for larger dogs who are prone to hip dysplasia. Swimming will not stress your dog's hips or shoulders. And this also makes it an excellent choice of exercise for puppies who are still developing.
Most dogs can learn to swim. The main exceptions are breeds like the bulldog, with their broad torso and short legs. Dogs really need longer legs to swim with to support a torso that size. And it can affect their ability to breathe in the water. Other breeds that may find swimming difficult are dachshunds and basset hounds, though they can still swim and enjoy it.
It's important to introduce your dog swimming properly. Just throwing your dog in is something you must avoid. It creates a sense of panic, a need for survival, that mars the experience as not so enjoyable. How would we feel in that same scenario?
These tips to introduce your dog to swimming should help make the whole experience a success.
* Find a pool or pond that isn't rough, and preferably with few other people around. Let your dog explore the area first and get his bearings, whilst you watch from a distance, without interfering. Let him explore his curiosity with the water, and don't try and coax him into it.
* When your dog starts to enter the water and splash around in the shallows, praise him with enthusiasm. By praising him you let him know it's safe to enter the water. Make sure the area you choose has a shallow entry point and doesn't drop off suddenly. Praise your dog about 12 to 15 times.
* When your dog seems comfortable in the water, throw a ball slightly deeper into the pond for him to fetch. Don't throw it too deep however, and this is where it helps not to have a sudden drop off point. When your dog starts to get into water that is a little over his head, start to praise him loudly. He'll start to tread water. When he fetches the ball, praise him loudly again. Repeat this process about 12 to 15 times.
* Use this basic procedure and repeat, but each time throw the ball out a little further. When you reach a new distance, keep him practising at that distance for 12 to 15 times, as above. This will help build his confidence in the water in a fun and non-threatening way. And don't throw the ball out too much farther each time. You want to keep things safe for your dog. He is after all learning to swim, and will be in the water over his head.
Puppy Training Tips For Faster Learnin
Here are 5 puppy training tips to help teach your puppy to behave and learn better.
* Patience
If you expect results very quickly from your puppy, you will end up getting frustrated, and your puppy will feel bad. If you create the impression that learning is unpleasant, you will have difficulty teaching your puppy new things as he gets older. And your puppy training sessions will lose their focus. Puppies learn in spurts, and they go through stages where they forget things. Whilst your puppy may seem to have mastered an activity one day, the next he may forget completely. Understanding that this is normal, and neither a reflection on your abilities as a trainer nor his ability to learn, will make it easier to ride through those days. Being patient, repeating the training, and soon the memory lapses will go and your puppy will have really integrated a new behaviour.
* Be Brief
Like children, puppies have a short attention span. If your puppy stops being able to pay attention to you because he's reached his limit for that day, finish up the session and start again when he's rested. Your puppy can get mentally and physically tired whilst learning, and this affects his attention span. If he can't pay attention to you, he won't be able to learn anything else during that session.
* Gentleness
Puppies are very sensitive. When they are emotionally or psychologically stressed, they won't learn. Don't train roughly, or put him in situations that are scary and expect positive results to be generated. For example, when teaching your dog to swim, don't just throw him in the water. Fears, which can be easily picked up, will make him learn more slowly. And he will be resistant to learning new things if he begins to associate it with unpleasant experiences. Animals have a wonderful innocent delight that should be nurtured. You can be firm, but be nice.
* Build Confidence
Like adults, creating confidence in your puppy gives him the best foundation in his life, both in terms of being able to train him, and having a well adjusted dog who doesn't create behavioral problems. Spend some positive time with your puppy that isn't in training mode. Play with him, enjoy his company. Just sitting with him, and having fun with him, will build a confident dog and a loyal friend.
* Simple steps
Puppies all learn best when taught in a simple step by step way.