Buying tips for buying dogs via internet

Most internet transactions are perfectly legitimate yet there are occassional reports of fraud or scams. Read the information below to help ensure do not become a victim of fraud.

We've listed some tips on how to buy safely with a step-by-step guide to follow along the way. Please note that these signs are not the only definitive indicator of a fraudulent seller. They are factors to help you identify high-risk transactions. Likewise, there is no guarantee that if a seller does not meet any of these criteria, it's a legitimate seller. If you are suspicious, it's a good idea to do some research. It is very important to remember that if something doesn't seem right, it probably isn't.

Step 1: Educate yourself.

1000's of quality breeders use NextDayPets.com. There are at times a few bad apples that can be easily pointed out by reviewing our good dog breeder guide.

Step 2: Protect yourself when buying online.

The common internet scams and warning signs is a great resource for educating yourself on typical internet scams. The scams are used on internet sites across the world and are easily identified if you educate yourself.

Request Personalized Photos: Require the seller to send additional pictures of the dog you are interested in. Require a specific item to be in the photo. Make sure this item is something you request (not the seller suggest) such as your name on a piece of paper, or anything creative you can think of to ensure the puppy exists. If the seller refuses to send additional pictures or state their camera is broken, or they do not have a digital camera, or are unable to for some reason to send the photos, then report the seller to NextDayPets.com and discontinue communication.

Do NOT trust a seller whom:

Uses any techniques as noted in the Common Internet Scams and Warning Signs link below.

States they are from Africa, Lagos, Nigeria, Cameroon or London.

Insists you use Western Union or other money transfer services. This type of payment offers ZERO protection.

Speaks of missionary work or AIDS relief work to build trust.

Cannot provide additional 'personalized' photos.

Step 3: Initiate communication with the seller

Contact the seller via email or phone. Only use email as the initial form of contact. Do NOT use email as the only means of communication. Speak to the seller on the phone more than once. All good reputable breeders will want to talk to you over the phone numerous times. Contact us if the seller refuses to give you a phone number or states the phone number is out of service or requests to only use email.

Step 4: Interview the seller

The seller should interview you as outlined in step 1 above (over the phone). You should interview the seller with questions regarding their breeding practices as outlined in step 1 above (over the phone).

Request copies of any included documents such as registration paperwork to be faxed or mailed to you prior to purchasing the dog. Request to send these documents COD to bear no additional cost to the seller.

Make sure all items that will be included in the sale be listed within the contract. The contract should state the breed of dog you are purchasing, the birth date, an addendum with a photo of the dog, registration paperwork if available, written health guarantee, return/reimbursement agreement, shipping or pick-up information, any essential dog supplies, etc. You may request to have the contract notorized. All reputable breeders will make you sign within the contract stating you will return the dog to the breeder should you be unable to keep the dog at any point in the dog's life. Additionally, reputable breeders will require you to sign within the contract stating you will spay or neuter the dog unless you will be actively involved in showing him or her (which applies to show-quality dogs only).

Request all promises or arrangements to be in writing, signed and dated. A clearly defined, well-written, signed contract will protect both the buyer and the seller.

Step 5: Purchase safely

Never send Western Union or Money Gram when buying online as there is no way to protect your money if a problem should arise

How to identify a good dog breeder?

Look for a breeder who at a minimum:

1. Keeps her dogs in the home and as part of the family--not outside in kennel runs.

2. Has dogs who appear happy and healthy, are excited to meet new people, and don't shy away from visitors.

3. Shows you where the dogs spend most of their time--an area that is clean and well maintained.

4. Encourages you to spend time with the puppy's parents--at a minimum, the pup's mother--when you visit.

5. Breeds only one or two types of dogs, and is knowledgeable about what is called "breed standards" (the desired characteristics of the breed in areas such as size, proportion, coat, color and temperament).

6. Has a strong relationship with a local veterinarian and shows you the records of veterinary visits for the puppies. Explains the puppies' medical history and what vaccinations your new puppy will need.

7. Is well versed in the potential genetic problems inherent in the breed--there are specific genteic concerns for every breed--and explains to you what those concerns are. The breeder should have had the puppy's parents tested (and should have the results from the parents' parents) to ensure they are free of those defects, and she should be able to provide you with the documentation for all testing she has done through organizations such as the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals(OFA).

8. Gives you guidance on caring and training for your puppy and is available for your assistance after you take your puppy home.

9. Provides references of other families who have purchased puppies from her.

10. Feeds high quality "premium" brand food.

11. Doesn't always have puppies available but rather will keep a list of interested people for the next available litter.

12. Actively competes with her dogs in conformation trials (which judge how closely dogs match their "breed standard"), obedience trials (which judge how well dogs perform specific sets of tasks on command), or tracking and agility trials. Good breeders will also work with local, state, and national clubs that specialize in their specific breeds.

13. Encourages multiple visits and wants your entire family to meet the puppy before you take your puppy home.

14. Provides you with a written contract and health guarantee and allows plenty of time for you to read it thoroughly. The breeder should not require that you use a specific veterinarian.

In addition to the above criteria, you'll want a breeder who requires some things of you, too. A reputable breeder doesn't just sell her puppies to the first interested buyer!

The breeder should require you to:

1. Explain why you want a dog.

2. Tell her who in the family will be responsible for the pup's daily care, who will attend training classes, where the dog will spend most of her time, and what "rules" have been decided upon for the puppy--for example, will the dog be allowed on furniture?

3. Provide a veterinary reference if you already have pets or, if you don't have other pets, she should ask which practices you are considering for your new puppy.

4. Provide proof from your landlord or condominium board (if you rent or live in a condominium complex) that you are allowed to have companion animals.

5. Sign a contract that you will spay or neuter the dog unless you will be actively involved in showing him or her (which applies to show-quality dogs only).

6. Sign a contract stating that you will return the dog to the breeder should you be unable to keep the dog at any point in the dog's life.

How to Bathe Newborn Puppies?

Overview

Newborn puppies are just beginning to adapt to the outside world, so they tend to be quite sensitive to temperature and other extraneous variables. Typically within the first three to four weeks of their life, puppies are cared for by their mothers. However, sometimes the mothers become inattentive or a problem occurs while they are not around. In those instances, it is important for the dog owner to know how to care for the newborn -- particularly how to bathe it, which will also help to stimulate the puppy to urinate and defecate.

Step 1

Begin by gently picking up the puppy and holding her close to your chest to prevent chilling.

Step 2

Dip your washcloth or cotton ball into the warm water. Soap is not necessary and actually can be harmful to the newborn puppy.

Step 3

Use the moistened wash cloth or cotton ball to gently rub the body of the puppy. Pay special attention to the genital and anus areas to stimulate urination and defecation.

Step 4

Immediately use the soft towel to dry the puppy thoroughly.

Step 5

Hold the puppy within the towel for a few minutes to ensure warmth.

How to Identify Fleas & Ticks?

Overview

Though many people know that ticks and fleas are harmful to a pet's health, not everyone knows how to identify these parasites. Identification is important, since different parasites require different removal and treatment techniques. Pets should be checked for ticks and fleas after time spent with other dogs or outside, because even if you brush and bathe your animal regularly, it is still possible for him to get fleas or ticks. When you first spot a small insect crawling in your pet's fur, you'll need to check him thoroughly---if you've seen one bug, chances are that there are more hiding in the fur.

Step 1

Skim a comb over the top of your pet's hair, moving slowly from back to front. Only comb deeper into the fur if you don't notice any ticks on the first shallow pass. Shallow combing is important because you don't want to accidentally touch a tick with the comb, as you may crush the tick's body; the Camino Animal Clinic explains that this can "force harmful bacteria to leave the tick and enter the [pet's] bloodstream."

Step 2

Look for insects attached to the animal's skin as you're gently combing. Ticks latch on to your pet and typically don't move once they are attached. Ticks have small heads and spindly legs. The body will be flat if the tick has just recently latched on, or it will be puffy and engorged if the tick has been feeding on the animal's blood for a while. Ticks may be black, red, or brownish, ranging from 1/8 to 1/2 inch in size. The deer tick, which carries Lyme disease, is especially tiny and hard to detect. All adult ticks have eight legs, making them easy to distinguish since most insect species only have six legs.

Step 3

Remove the identified tick by grabbing the insect's head with a fine-tipped tweezers. As with combing, you'll want to avoid the tick's body; if you grab the body with your tweezers, you risk forcing bacteria into the bloodstream.

Step 4

Kill the removed tick by placing it in a container of rubbing alcohol.

Step 5

Clean the area where the tick was attached using a disinfectant. Also apply an antibiotic ointment like Neosporin.

Step 6

Wash your hands with antibacterial soap and water.

Step 7

Consult a veterinarian if the tick you removed was engorged; this means that the tick had been attached and feeding for quite a while, so your pet should be checked for Lyme disease and other illnesses.

Step 1

Examine your pet's belly, where fur is thinner, to get a good look at the animal's skin. Look for small red or pinkish circles measuring anywhere from 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch in diameter. These circular discolorations are most likely flea bites. Locating the bites is an easy way to initially identify a flea problem before you've located the fleas themselves.

Step 2

Comb the animal's hair from back to front to get a better look at your animal's skin. Keep an eye open for small, oval-shaped specks. Fleas are very tiny, measuring less than a 1/4 inch long, and even if you're looking directly at the flea, it can be hard to tell if the small brown object is truly an insect or if it is just a piece of soil or flea feces.

Step 3

Watch for movement to confirm that the brown speck is really a flea. Fleas often scurry from exposed skin to more furry areas of the animal to hide. In addition to preferring thicker fur, fleas tend to hide near "crevasses" in the animal, such as near the animal's joints, near the base of the tail, or in neck folds. Even if you find a dead flea, you should still continue searching for movement until you identify a live flea infestation.

Step 4

Wash your hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap after you've positively identified the fleas and consult a veterinarian immediately, as recommended by the FDA. In almost every situation, you'll want to give the animal a flea bath using a flea-removal product, but a veterinarian's advice is necessary for selecting the best product for your animal.

Home Remedies for Dog Allergies?

Overview

Like humans, dogs can develop allergies to various substances, including flea bites, feathers, dust, airborne chemicals and mold spores. An allergen may be inhaled or the dog may absorb it through direct contact with his skin. Sensitivity to certain foods may also trigger an allergic reaction.

Itching/Scratching

The most common allergic reaction is irritated and itchy skin and according to the "Dog Owners Home Veterinary Handbook," the dog must be exposed to a substance more than once before she will develop an allergy. The dog naturally scratches, licks or chews the itchy skin, often making the itch worse and possibly creating sores.
Soaking the dog in cool water may alleviate the immediate itch if the dog is agreeable. Alternately, wetting a clean washcloth with cool water and gently squeezing it over the dog's irritated skin may offer some relief.
Adding a handful of ground oatmeal to the dog's soaking water may ease some of the irritation and will provide a thin lubricant on the skin to keep it from drying out. Regular or quick-cooking oats may be used after grinding them to a fine powder in a blender or food processor.

Oral Remedies

Antihistamines, found in the pharmacy aisle of your grocery store, may be efficient in treating dog allergies. This medication counters the release of histamines, which are responsible for the itching and irritated skin. The "Doctors Book of Home Remedies for Dogs and Cats," suggests a dosage of between 1 and 3 mg for every pound of dog weight, although your veterinarian can offer specific dosage advice.
Fatty acid supplements may also relieve a dog's irritated skin but the dosage will depend upon your veterinarian's recommendation. Since getting most dogs to swallow a pill can be trying, a fatty acid supplement capsule can be broken open and the contents mixed with the dog's food.

Environmental Remedies

When the allergen is removed from the dog's environment, his symptoms will decrease. This means keeping the dog indoors when airborne pollen is high, which is usually during early morning and evening hours. In addition, keep the dog's bed or crate spotlessly clean. Daily vacuuming will remove many allergens from carpeting and upholstery and weekly laundering the dog's bedding will help control dust mites.

What Foods Should You Feed a Pregnant Dog?

Overview

Pregnancy in any animal is a delicate and important time. The growing pups in a pregnant dog demand a great deal from the mother's body, and will actually suck nutrition from the very bones of their dam if it is needed. For puppies to be born healthy and fully formed, it is important to provide optimal nutrition to the mother while she is pregnant.

Take Her to the Vet

Begin with a visit to your veterinarian. Any healthy pregnancy should be checked and verified by a vet, and then the health of the mother should be evaluated. Her physical condition will be assessed and you can ask the vet at that time what food is best to feed her. Often, vet offices will have a selection of food available that you can buy on site.

Home Care

Feeding your dog at regular times in controlled amounts is the best way to care for her at home. A pregnant female does not have as much room in her stomach for food, so feeding more frequently, in gradually increasing amounts to meet the demands of her growing babies, is helpful--especially as her stomach becomes more and more squeezed as the pups get bigger and take up more room. Twice a day will suffice, and then--towards the last 3 weeks--smaller portions three to four times a day is easiest on the female.

Types of Food to Feed Her

Foods high in easily digestible protein are what you need to look for. The main ingredient should be meat, and meat that you can easily recognize--such as chicken, beef, pork, fish or lamb. Avoid "ground animal meal." You have no idea what that meat is, or how old it is or what it was ground with. Avoid anything with ash or too many fillers, and look for natural ingredients, with supplemental nutrition such as dried brewers yeast, vitamins and minerals. Dry food, or kibble, is best, although mixing it with wet food will make it more palatable for your female.

Ideas on How to Get Rid of Fleas in the Yard

Overview

While adult fleas prefer to spend quality time directly embedded on your animal, flea eggs, larvae and pupae are usually found everywhere else. This means that for every flea you find on your pet, there are likely to be hundreds of eggs and larvae around your home and yard. Most people use a variety of toxic sprays to remove fleas from the yard, all of which require you to use a garden hose and a hose end sprayer. Depending on the product you select, the process generally takes anywhere from 1 to 2 weeks.

Tackle Warm, Shady Areas

Fleas prefer areas that are moist, warm and shady--which probably not coincidentally is where a pet is likely to hang out on a warm summer day. Be sure to thoroughly spray these areas, but read the directions carefully to avoid spraying in areas located near where runoff can filter into lakes, ponds or creeks and contaminate the water.

Remove Organic Debris

Fleas are naturally attracted to areas near organic debris. This includes composting areas, or places where grass cuttings and leaves are piled to gently decompose. Rake and bag any organic debris of this type, and follow up with your flea spray. Raking will disturb the flea's habitat and allow your product to penetrate and hopefully kill the fleas.

Target Areas in Your Yard Where your Pet Spends Most of Her Time

Fleas will also naturally congregate and lay eggs near where your pet spends most of her outdoor time. Depending on the weather, your pet may naturally gravitate to a deck or patio, a dog house, or even under a porch. Be sure to concentrate your spraying in these areas to maximize your chances for removing fleas from your yard.

Stages of Puppy Teeth

Newborn Teeth

Puppies are initially born without teeth. They do not receive their first puppy teeth until they reach the age of between six and eight weeks old. They grow a total of 28 teeth, which are known as baby teeth or deciduous teeth. The first teeth that fall out are the incisor teeth, followed by the premolars and the canines. Puppies do not have molar teeth, only premolars. Their upper and lower canine teeth are at the back of their mouths and are larger. Their upper and lower incisor teeth are located in the middle.

Teething

For puppies, the teething process continues for several months, off and on. For a puppy, this can be an uncomfortable and painful period. When puppies are teething, they increase their biting and chewing and test out different objects and texture to relieve the discomfort.

Losing Teeth

Between the ages of three months and seven months, a puppy begins to lose its deciduous teeth. Each deciduous tooth root will generally be absorbed by the adult tooth, though there are instances where this does not properly occur. At three months, the incisors begin to fall out to make room for the new adult teeth. At the age of four months, the adult molars and adult canines are beginning to come in. Between the ages of six and seven months, the adult molars will come in. Finally, by seven to eight months, the full set of adult teeth should have come in.

Considerations

By the time a puppy is eight months old, it should have a full set of a total of 42 teeth, but some breeds have more or fewer. The larger the dog, generally speaking, the faster the teeth will appear. Doberman pinchers are an example of dogs that have fewer teeth. Spaniels and greyhounds tend to have more teeth. At the age of between three months and four months, a puppy should be checked out by a veterinarian to make sure that there are no bite problems. If bad bite is occurring as a result of puppy teeth, pulling the baby teeth prematurely may be necessary.

What Bones are Safe to Give to a Dog?

Overview

Owners have fed their dogs bones for years and delighted in seeing how their pets seemed to enjoy their treats. However, questions have recently arisen over whether raw bones are safe or if dogs need bones at all.

Significance

If the dog chews off large chunks of bone, swallows them and has to have surgery, it can cost the owner hundreds of dollars in veterinary bills.

Types

Proponents of the BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, or Bones and Raw Food) diet believe a dog can have raw beef bones. Some veterinarians say a dog should have no animal bones, but allow for synthetic bones made of rubber, nylon or rawhide.

Considerations

According to Dr. William Fortney with the College of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Kansas in Manhattan, the owner should consider whether his dog is a chewer or a large chunk swallower.

Misconceptions

An owner may think a raw bone gives her dog some nutrition, but the bone itself and the collagen in the bone cannot be digested, according to experts at petcenter.com. Dogs do not require bones for good dental health either.

Warning

Bones from poultry can splinter and lodge in a dog's throat or cause internal tearing in the digestive tract. Pork chop bones have sharp ends which can do the same thing. Round steak bones can accidentally slip over a dog's lower eye teeth.

How to Make Organic Flea Dog Shampoo?

Overview

Bathing your dog with a chemical-laden flea shampoo may get rid of fleas but may not be the healthiest option for your dog or your household. Pet shops now sell high-end organic flea shampoos infused with essential oils, but that might not be the best option for your pocketbook. However, you can combine affordability with health by mixing up your own organic flea shampoo, which will repel fleas while leaving your dog smelling fresh.

Step 1

Bring 2 cups of distilled water to a boil. If you have no distilled water, you can use filtered water, but the shampoo won't clean as well as if you use distilled water.

Step 2

Put 1 ½ tbsp. of dried soapwort root to the water. If the soapwort you are using is whole, chop it. This will help the soapwort release its cleansing compounds into the water.

Step 3

Turn down the heat to simmer and cover the pot. Let it simmer for 20 minutes, then take it off the stove and let it cool to room temperature, which should take about an hour.

Step 4

Pour the mixture through muslin and into a jar to remove the soapwort. Discard the soapwort and retain the liquid, which is your organic flea shampoo base.

Step 5

Select organic essential oils to add to the shampoo that have natural flea-fighting properties, such as cedar, citronella, citrus, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, mint or rosemary essential oils. You can add a single type of essential oil to the shampoo or you can blend them. Either approach works well for flea control.

Step 6

Mix 20 drops of essential oils total into the flea shampoo base. Place the lid on the shampoo jar and shake it to combine the oil with the shampoo. Refrigerate it until you need it. It will last about two weeks in the refrigerator.

How to Potty Train a Puppy Using Vinegar Water?

Overview

Potty training a puppy with vinegar water can make training more effective. After your puppy has an accident in the house, he may return to the same spot to potty. Even if you clean the spot with regular soap, the dog may still smell his scent unless you also neutralize the odor. White vinegar is a chemical-free way to disinfect and neutralize the odor of urine and feces. Use a mixture of vinegar and water to house train your puppy.

Step 1

Prepare a mixture of 50 percent white vinegar and 50 percent water. Stir the ingredients to mix thoroughly. Pour the mixture in a spray bottle. Keep the bottle on hand during training.

Step 2

Spray the vinegar mixture lightly on carpeted areas in your house. Only spray a light mist on the carpet. Do not soak it or apply as much as needed during a cleanup. The vinegar odor acts as a deterrent to help prevent the puppy from urinating and defecating on the carpet.

Step 3

Allow the puppy to sniff the vinegar scent. Gently place her nose on an area sprayed with vinegar water. Do not rub her nose in it, because that will scare her.

Step 4

Take your puppy outside to potty frequently during the day to prevent accidents. Puppies have small bladders and may need to go out as many as six to eight times a day during training. Give the puppy an opportunity to potty outside after waking, before bed and after drinking water or eating food.

Step 5

Present the puppy with a dog treat after he potties outside and whenever he avoids making messes in the house. Rewards provide positive reinforcement.

Step 6

Clean up any household pet messes immediately. Use a cleaning cloth to soak up excess urine. Pick up feces with a paper towel, and throw it away. Spray the affected area with a generous amount of the vinegar water mixture until it is saturated. Scrub the mess clean with a fresh cleaning cloth. The vinegar will both disinfect the area and neutralize the odor.

Step 7

Soak a cleaning cloth with the vinegar mixture, and allow it to sit on tough spots for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, rub the debris away with the cloth.

Step 8

Dry the area with a towel. The towel will completely dry hard surfaces, such as linoleum, tile or wood. However, carpet needs to dry overnight. Avoid walking on the spot until it is completely dry. You can also use a blow dryer to speed up drying.

Pet Health Insurance

A major consideration one must keep in mind when deciding to bring home a pet is whether or not one can afford to pay for the care of that pet. Pets, especially dogs, can be quite expensive when it comes to day to day care; but what about the event of an accident or severe illness? If you don’t want to risk breaking the bank to maintain the health and wellbeing of your beloved pooch, you should consider purchasing pet insurance.

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, Americans spent 24.5 billion dollars on pet health care in 2006. Furthermore, with the impressive advancements in veterinary science, there exist much more advanced procedures, which can cost upwards of $5000. Clearly, we care dearly for our pets, and many are willing to pay huge amounts of money to save an ill pet. However, companion animals are euthanized or allowed to suffer every day because their owners simply cannot afford the care they need. Pet insurance offsets these exorbitant costs so you can keep your furry friend around for years to come.

Many are not aware of the existence, let alone the benefits of pet insurance; but it may surprise the reader to learn that the first pet insurance policy was offered in 1982. Through the almost three decades that pet insurance has been available to the public, many different providers have found their way into the market, each offering different levels of service, costs, benefits, and perks.

To choose which pet insurance company is right for you and your pets, you should shop around and consider what sort of coverage you are looking for. Different companies have different philosophies regarding coverage.

Some companies cover routine vet care. This includes annual exams, heartworm detection and treatment, vaccinations, teeth cleanings, general health screenings, prescriptions, spay and neuter procedures, and flea control. Some companies even cover professional consultations, deworming, fecal tests and pet identification microchips. Other companies believe it saves the consumer money in the long run to not offer coverage for routine care, the sort of care for which one can plan with relatively low and consistent costs. These companies claim that they can keep premiums lower by only offering coverage for the sort of incidents and illness for which the owner cannot plan, and therefore will not necessarily have the available funds.

Most plans offer major medical coverage. This usually includes accidents, serious illnesses, MRI CAT scans, X-rays, surgeries, hospitalization, foreign object removal, and snake bites. Most companies do not offer coverage for elective procedures, cosmetic procedures, pet food, grooming, behavior issues, congenital diseases and conditions, hereditary conditions and diseases, and pre-existing conditions.

One can sidestep the lack of coverage for pre-existing conditions by purchasing pet insurance as soon as a new puppy is purchased, before such conditions manifest themselves. There are companies that cover congenital and hereditary conditions, but they are few and far between, so one must shop around.

There are other issues one should consider when choosing a provider as well. Many providers will allow you to receive care from the vet of your choosing, while others require that you choose a vet within their network. This is an important question to ask before signing up with a company, especially if you already have a trusted family vet. You should also ask if your policy would cover specialist care, in the event of an eye injury or other comparable condition that requires the care of a specialist. Not all companies offer this coverage.

Consider deductibles as well when you are choosing an insurance company. Different companies offer different deductibles, some being significantly higher than others. Some companies even allow you to adjust your deductable to lower your monthly payments

The peace of mind offered by pet insurance is priceless. When your pet is injured or seriously ill, the last thing you want to think about is money; that is the time to focus on supporting and comforting your beloved pet.

Be a Good Dog Neighbor

Robert Frost wrote that “good fences make good neighbors.” It is equally true that good dog owners make good neighbors. Neighborly relationships are ruined every day by unconscientious dog owners, and poorly trained dogs. But, if you take the right measures, you can have your dog and your friendly neighbors too, whether you have good fences or not.


Barking

One of the biggest issues people have with their dog-owning neighbors is excessive barking. The best way to keep your dog from barking and infuriating your neighbors is to keep him inside when you’re not available to supervise.

This doesn’t just benefit your neighbors. Dogs left alone in the yard can escape and get in to all sorts of trouble. They are also left open to teasing by other animals, neighborhood kids, and mean neighbors. But as far as the excessive barking, you have no way to control the behavior, or correct it if you aren’t around to witness it. If you leave your dog outside all day while you are at work, you have no way of knowing if he is disturbing your neighbors, so it is best to leave him inside. If he is not well behaved enough to be trusted in the house, crate training is a wonderful and safe option.

You can also take measures to limit your dog’s barking in general. Come up with a “be quiet” command like “hush,” or “enough.” When your dog barks, say “hush” and “sit.” If he sits and stops barking, give him a treat. Tell him to hush every single time he barks, and give him a treat every time he sits and stops, and he will learn that hush not only means that he must stop barking, but also that he is going to be rewarded.

Teaching a place command can help as well. Place is a target exercise that cues your dog to go to a specific location and hold a down stay. You can use this as an alternate behavior to excessive barking. Read the article on Teaching Place to learn the steps to shaping this behavior.


Pick Up the Poo

Another issue people have with their dog-owner neighbors is dog waste. It is unpleasant, smelly, and a huge pain if you step in it. It also spreads disease. Dog waste left out can seep into the ground water or flow into streams and make people and other animals sick.

Police your yard regularly for doggy piles. There are many affordable pooper scoopers available, so the fact that dog waste is gross and you don’t want to touch it is no excuse. Also, always, always, pick up after your dog when you are on a walk or at the dog park. Not doing so is unsanitary and intolerably rude. There are lots of small, handy carriers for biodegradable bags, some of which even attach to your dog’s leash for superior convenience. Never leave the house to walk your dog without some baggies to pick up after him.



No Roaming

No matter how good your dog is about wandering around the neighborhood and always coming home, you should not allow this behavior. Dogs who are allowed to roam often lead a sort of double life. Much like a flock of neighborhood kids, roaming dogs will hang out together and form a pack. A perfectly mellow and non destructive dog can wreak havoc when grouped with a bunch of other dogs. They can tear apart garbage cans, chase children, or tease or injure other animals.

Roaming dogs also face the danger of being hit by cars, being stolen, being picked up by Animal Control, or being injured by another animal or person in the neighborhood. People can be cruel, and as hard as it is to understand, there are lots of people out there who just hate animals; you don’t want your dog to be at the mercy of these kinds of people.

When your dog is not in your home or yard, he should be with you, and always on a leash. You have zero control of a dog not on a leash, no matter how well trained he is. The best way to avoid disaster is to leash your dog.


Dog Park Manners

Do not let your dog off his leash until he is in the dog park, and always pick up after him. Dog parks are shut down all the time because of lazy owners’ reluctance to clean up after their pooches.

Also, you must understand your dog’s behavior so you can anticipate trouble. Know your dog’s body language so you can tell if he is frightened or about to behave aggressively. If your dog is bullying other dogs, stop him immediately. The dog park is not a babysitting service; you must supervise your dog and be ready to diffuse any situations that may arise. If your dog is continually bullying, it’s time to go home. The dog park is there for everyone to enjoy, and a whole dog park’s good time can be ruined by one bully dog. If your dog is extremely dog-aggressive, do yourself and your neighbors a favor and keep him out of the dog park until this behavior has been reversed.


If you follow these tips, use your good judgment, and think about how you would like you and your dog to be treated, you can be a great dog neighbor. There’s no reason that dog people and non-dog people can’t get along and have fun, fulfilling neighborly relationships.

Camping with Your Dog

Camping with your dog can be extremely rewarding and tons of fun, as long as you prepare properly for the trip and remember to be considerate of your dog and others on the trails.


Preparing for the Trip

Call ahead and find out if your desired destination allows dogs. Even if you have been to a particular campsite before with your pooch, a bad dog experience and irresponsible owners can cause parks to change their rules. Also, find out the location and phone number of the nearest 24 hour vet.

Once you have ascertained that your dog is welcome, if possible, take your dog to the site a couple of times before you head out for a camping trip. Your dog will be more relaxed and comfortable if the location is familiar. If you intend to take a separate tent for your dog, set it up in your house or yard for a few days and let your pup check it out. He will be a lot more likely to consider the tent a safe getaway if he has had a chance to get used to its presence and smell. You should do the same with any other equipment for your dog. If he is going to be carrying a pack, take him for several walks with the pack to make sure he is comfortable with the added weight. If you’re bringing booties or a light up collar, try these out on him before the trip as well. In the event that you dog is not going to take well to his new equipment, you’ll want to know before you’re out on the trail.

Before you leave, make sure your dog is up-to-date on all his vaccinations. If possible, take him for a well checkup before you hit the road, and make sure you obtain copies of his records. Also, make sure your dog is covered as far as flea and tick treatment, and consider the Lyme disease vaccine if you’re going to a heavy tick area. If your destination is a popular hangout for mosquitoes (coastal areas, marshlands, anyplace with a lot of standing water) your pooch should be on a heartworm preventative as well.

It is important before you introduce your dog to any unfamiliar situation that you take some time to understand his language. Dogs have different postures, barks, growls, and whimpers for different circumstances. How does he sound when he is scared or feels threatened? How does he sound and behave when he’s about to be aggressive? How does he act when he’s too worn out to exercise anymore? What sounds does he make when he’s hurt? This awareness on your part of your dog’s condition is always important, but it is especially necessary when you’re in the wilderness, as unforeseen situations can, and often will, arise without warning.

As with any time you go camping, be sure to tell someone at home where you’ll be and how long you expect to be gone. If possible, notify local park rangers that you’ll be camping with your dog in a particular location and how long you’ll be there. This can come in extremely handy if you get lost or injured on the trail. If no one knows where you are or when you intend to be back, they won’t know to worry if you don’t come home. Never depend on a cell phone!


What to Pack

There are lots of fun and handy products out there for camping with your dog, but there are some things you absolutely must not leave home without. Your dog should always wear his rabies vaccination tag and ID tags. If the contact number on his ID tag is your cell phone number, or your home phone and you live alone, have a new tag made with the number of someone you know is reachable while you’re out on your trip.

Outfit your pooch with a reflective collar, and preferably a brightly colored pack or vest. Even if it is not hunting season, or you are on protected land, there’s still a chance you’ll cross paths with hunters. Your dog is not likely to be mistaken for a deer if he’s in brightly-colored attire (the same goes for you.) Orange is the universal “don’t shoot at me” color in the woods; if nothing else, accessorize your pup with a bright orange bandana. Although those products make your dog more visible to hunters, they are still not much help with a lost dog in the woods at night. Pick up a Ruff Wear Beacon Safety Light or Night Time Collar Safety Light to affix to your dog’s collar. If he gets away from you, he’ll be hard to miss on even the darkest night with a big red light attached to him.

You might consider purchasing a set of Ruff Wear Bark’n boots for your pooch. Especially if you’ll be traveling on rough or rocky terrain, or hiking long distances, you’ll want to make sure your pup’s paws are protected. If your dog is trained to spend his nights in a crate, he’ll take well to having his own tent. The Instent Dog Haus is a convenient and affordable option.


You should have the following items in your pack:

-A canine 1st aid kit. Most of the items this kind of kit similar to what one might find in a human first aid kit, but they include instructions and items that are especially useful for dogs.

-Dog coat or sweater--Especially if you have a short-haired dog, keep in mind that even in the summer it can get extremely cold at night.

-Plenty of the dog food your pup is used to (enough for two or three days longer than you intend to stay) and fresh water.

-An airtight container for your dog’s food so it doesn’t attract wild animals or get contaminated with moisture or creepy critters.

-Collapsible food and water bowls—they pack much better than regular bowls and are lighter.

-An extra collar and leash—you never know what could get broken or chewed. An extra leash also doubles as added length to your current leash, a tourniquet, or rope.

-A current picture of your dog, with a written description on the back including unique markings. This will be good to have if your dog gets lost.

-A comb to help remove burrs and bugs from your dog’s fur.

-Baggies to pick up after your dog. Biodegradable bags are available, so there’s no excuse to not clean up!

-Current records of your dog’s health and vaccinations.


Now you’re Camping!

Never let your dog out of your sight or your site. There are all kinds of trouble your precocious pup can get into in the woods, from wild animals to other campers; the best way to avoid this trouble is to keep your pooch by your side and on a leash. Never, ever let your dog chase wildlife. It might seem like harmless fun to let your dog run after a seemingly gentle animal like a deer, but one well-placed kick from those graceful creatures can be the end of your beloved dog. Not to mention that whenever camping, with your dog or not, it is important not to disturb the natural environment, which includes the wildlife.

If your camping trip includes a long hike to the site, or if hiking is part of your itinerary, be considerate of your dog’s limits. By the time your dog refuses to go any further, he has been too exhausted for too long. Take plenty of breaks for water and rest and check his paws often for cuts, scrapes, thorns, and burrs. Do a thorough tick check on yourself, your family, and your dog at the end of each day.

Remember that every traveler with a dog is an ambassador for dog owners everywhere. Set a good example, be a contentious dog owner, and maybe, one day, more sites will allow dogs. Always, ALWAYS pick up after your dog! Dog waste spreads disease, attracts pests, and is an icky inconvenience to other campers. Every dog owner who doesn’t clean up after their pup is one step closer to your favorite site being closed to dogs. Carefully store any left-over dog food where it won’t attract pests or wild animals. Your camping neighbors will not be pleased when a bear lumbers into the area in search of your dog’s kibble. If your neighbors are not amused by your dog’s antics or just the presence of your dog in general, just move. It is much easier to set up camp elsewhere than to spend your camping trip with a combative neighbor. Those of us who choose to camp with our dogs are, unfortunately, the minority, and because of irresponsible, inconsiderate dog owners, in many places we have been given a bad name. Do your very best to show the world that camping and dogs go beautifully hand in hand… because they do!

Emergencies & Your Dog

Picture this—you’re relaxing on your couch with your pooch after dinner, watching TV, and your favorite sitcom is interrupted by an emergency announcement. Your town is suddenly, and without warning, being evacuated. What do you do? Where will you go? What’s the plan? You and your trusty hound exchange wide-eyed looks as a thousand possibilities and fears race through your mind.

If you are properly prepared for an emergency, then that moment, though stressful, would be followed by a series of calm and calculated actions, each one simple and planned, resulting in a much less terrifying and hectic situation, not to mention the assurance of safety for you and your beloved dog. If you aren’t ready when you hear such an emergency announcement, the chances that you, running anxious around the house, will find and pack everything you need and make the right decisions, are slim to none.


So Get Ready

First, sit down and make a list of phone numbers. Write down the numbers of your vet, a local 24 hour emergency vet, poison control, local animal control, local humane society or SPCA, and the numbers of a few vets and a 24 hour emergency vets in surrounding cities in the event that you have to evacuate. Public shelters usually do not accept dogs (except for service dogs) so you need to find out ahead of time where else you could go. Call local hotels and hotels in surrounding cities, enquire about their policies regarding animals and emergency situations, and be sure to mention the number of dogs you’ll have and their breeds. Some hotels will let in small dogs but not large ones, and restrict certain breeds; so “do you allow dogs” is not a sufficient question. Add the numbers of dog-friendly hotels to your list. Write a note on the bottom of the list including your dog’s feeding schedule, any specific health issues, and instructions for when and how to give your dog any medication he may take on a daily basis. Make three copies of this list, and post one copy by your phone, put one in your emergency kit, and fold one up and put it in your wallet.

Whatever the nature of an emergency, whether it’s a snowstorm that keeps you from getting home from work or a hurricane forcing you to evacuate from your town, it is extremely helpful to have a buddy who can attend to your dog if you can’t. A trusted neighbor, friend or family member who lives close-by can look in on your dog if you can’t make it home, and can evacuate your pets if you’re not around. Make sure that the person you choose is familiar with your dog and his habits. If he tends to hide under the bed when he’s scared, or has one toy that will always, always make him come running when you squeak it, your buddy needs to know. Make sure your buddy is willing to take care of and travel with your dog if you can’t. Because of this, your buddy should probably not be someone who already has several animals or small children to deal with. Show your buddy where you keep your emergency supplies and where you have posted your list of emergency numbers, and give them a key to your house. Make arrangements with your buddy concerning where you will meet up in an emergency. Establish one close-by location, and one farther away so you know where you can find your dog if even if you can’t reach your buddy via cell phone. You should also make arrangements with a friend with a dog-friendly home who’s far enough away to not be affected by an evacuation or natural disaster with whom you could stay if you have to evacuate.

Place a sticker on or near your front door and on the window nearest to your dog’s crate that states how many and what kind of dog is in the house. This will alert emergency personnel, and if something happens to you and your buddy they will remove the dog from the house. If you evacuate with your pet, make sure to take these stickers down or write “evacuated with pets” over them so vital time is not wasted on dogs that don’t need saving.


Your Emergency Kit

An emergency kit is absolutely necessary. In certain situations these items can mean life or death for your dog, and if nothing else, they will make everything a lot easier and more comfortable for everyone involved.

3-5 days-worth of dog food in an airtight container—the trick to not being stuck with stale food: check the expiration date and mark it on your calendar. Before the food expires, remove it from your kit, replace it with new food, and feed your dog the old food before it has a chance to go bad. If you consistently roll over the food in the kit, you will be reminded to check the expiration dates on medications and other items as well so you know your kit will be ready when you need it.

3-5 days-worth of water—this is the water just for your dog, don’t assume that the water you have set aside for you and your family will be sufficient to share. Don’t forget that bottled water expires too.

Any medicine dog is taking—remember to keep expiration dates in mind.

Collapsible food and water containers—they pack better and are lighter than regular bowls.

Your dog’s medical and vaccination records and copies of registration information in a sealed plastic bag with extra ID tags and an ID tag with an out-of-the-area contact in case your dog loses his collar.

An extra sturdy collar and leash—the collar or leash you use on a daily basis could get lost, broken, or chewed, and you don’t want to be left without a way to restrain your dog.

Flashlight—you should have a flashlight (with working batteries, don't forget to check) in every bag you pack. So many different emergencies result in power outages. Have you ever tried looking for a flashlight in the dark without a flashlight?

Towels—they can be used as bedding, rolled up to make pillows, torn into strips for tourniquets, bandages or rope, and of course, they’re good for wiping down a muddy pup.

Paper towels, trash bags, dog waste bags, and household chlorine bleach—it is absolutely necessary that you clean up after your pet, especially if you are in a public area.

Your list of vets, hotels and emergency 24 hour numbers.

A picture of you with your dog—having your picture with your dog is important, it can help you establish ownership if you get separated. On the back of the picture write your pet’s breed, age, sex, color, and distinguishing characteristics.

A few familiar toys and tasty treats—just like for you, something familiar and pleasant in a scary situation can make a big difference.

A portable crate—it should be big enough to allow your dog to stand, lie down, and turn around comfortably.

Grooming items—if you have a short-haired dog like a Beagle or Lab, this isn’t completely necessary, but if you have an Afghan hound or Pekingese, it’s a good idea to have a comb to keep mats from developing in the fur.

A first aid kit including:
Antiseptic, Hand Sanitizer, Alcohol Cleansing Pads, Scissors, Latex Gloves, Cotton Swabs, Gauze Roll, Instant Cold Compress, Gauze Dressing Pads, Self-Adhesive Vet Wrap, Tweezers w/Magnifying Glass, Syringe for dosing medications, Pet Waste Bags, Buffered Aspirin, Generic Benadryl, Hydrocortisone Cream, Splints, Eye Wash, Petroleum Jelly, and Triple Antibiotic Ointment.


Stay Calm

Now, think back to sitting on the couch. A harried reporter has just explained that at the moment, evacuation is voluntary, but suggested. Just leave, and take your dog with you. Never leave your dog behind! (If you somehow, absolutely must, DO NOT chain or cage the dog, this could be a death sentence). A situation that is dangerous for you is dangerous for your dog too, and it is better to be safe than sorry. If you leave before evacuation is mandatory, you will beat traffic and avoid the panic and fear that tends to result from that sort of situation.

You are prepared, so all you have to do is take a deep breath, put your dog’s crate and your emergency bag in the car and be on your way. From the car you can call your buddy and let him or her know that you have your dog, and make reservations at a hotel or call your further-away buddy and let them know you’re coming. That’s it. Because you were ready, what could have been terrifying and drawn-out took five minutes and you and your precious pooch are already well on your way to safety.

Whether you are at a public shelter, hotel, or friend’s house, keep your dog on a leash. The last thing you need in a stressful situation is to run after Fido as he chases a squirrel down the street.

If you decide to stay home, establish a safe room. This should be an interior room in the house, preferably without any windows (depending on the nature of the emergency). Put your emergency bag and your dog’s crate in the room and bring in a TV and radio to keep up with what’s going on and when it’s safe to come out of your house. Make sure that anything you might need is in the room so you don’t have to leave if the situation gets bad.

When you return home after an emergency, keep your dog leashed. Familiar smells and land marks might be gone, disorienting your dog, and other dangers like fallen trees or injured animals could be anywhere. Remember to be patient with your dog after such an emergency, he does not understand what has happened, and is only reacting to the stress of the situation. Try to get your dog back to his normal routine as soon as possible; this will help him bounce back faster.

Choosing the Right Breed

Whether the kids finally wore you down, or you’ve finally moved into a pet-friendly home; whether you’ve recently lost your beloved best furry friend, or you’re out on your own for the first time and want a four-legged companion, choosing the breed of dog that’s right for you is an important decision, and is not to be taken lightly.

The first thing to consider is whether you and your family are really ready for a dog. Especially if you intend to get a puppy, everyone in the home must realize that they require constant supervision, care, and attention. The only low-energy puppy is an unhealthy puppy. “But it’s not my dog!” is never an acceptable attitude. Everyone has to agree that they are up for the challenge of caring for a puppy and maintaining consistency.

Once everyone in the home is on board, there are many factors to consider that will help you pick the perfect breed. First, think about why you want a dog. Are you looking for a running partner or a lap dog; are you seeking a protector or a shopping buddy; do you need help keeping your livestock in check or do you want a friend for your children to grow up with? Every kind of dog was bred with a specific purpose, and a dog fulfilling this purpose is a happy dog. One who is looking for a loyal protector should consider a German Shepherd, a Bouvier des Flandres or an Akita Inu, these dogs make wonderful house pets and will always alert you of intruders. One looking for a cute little munchkin to tote around town would enjoy a Maltese, a Papillon, or a Pug, these dogs can be carried in a small fashionable carrier and are content to go everywhere with you. A good playmate for your children would be a Labrador Retriever, a Boston Terrier, or a Beagle, these dogs are gentle and patient, and, if properly socialized, will tolerate rough play without grumpiness. Great companions who will pull their weight on a farm include Border Collies, Jack Russell Terriers, and Australian Cattle Dogs; these dogs are full of energy and love to work. If you want a workout buddy, think about a Golden Retriever, a Greyhound, or a Schipperke, you will probably wear out before they do.

Next, you have to think about energy level, exercise needs and environment. If you chose an intense and high energy dog, but prefer a sedentary lifestyle, you and your new friend will be unhappy. Do not get a high energy dog in hopes that he will force you into a workout routine. You will have whatever dog you choose for the next 8 to 18 years, depending on the breed, and if you haven’t already started running or jogging, it isn’t fair to commit to a dog who requires that kind of activity. Furthermore, if you live in an apartment, or just don’t have a yard, you should look for a dog who is lower-energy and content to just hang around. Apartment life, however, does not mean you can’t have a dog who needs a lot of exercise, if you have a dog park nearby and are up to the duty of long daily walks. If you have acres for your dog to wander, though, a high energy dog will be much happier. Dogs who would be especially content to be your couch buddy include Bulldogs, Mastiffs, and Pekingese. Keep in mind, however, that some low energy dogs are not so great to raise with children because they may grow impatient with constant commotion. Dogs who require a lot of exercise are fun for kids, but are a big commitment; some of these breeds include Siberian Huskies, German Short Haired Pointers, and English Springer Spaniels.

How much free time do you have to dedicate to the new addition to your family? This is an issue as far as energy level and ease of training. Of course, a high energy dog will require much more of your time for a couple of daily walks and lots of games of fetch and Frisbee. Some dogs are much more easily trained than others as well. Labradors, Yorkies, and Old English Sheepdogs are among the breeds who are especially eager to please and can learn tricks like “paw” in as little as ten minutes; they make wonderful first dogs. Other breeds require a huge amount of time, consistency, and commitment to housebreak and train, but if you’re up to it, make great companions. Some of these breeds include Beagles, Schipperkes, and Afghan Hounds. If you’ve never owned or trained a dog, these more independent, strong-willed breeds are significantly more challenging.

Another consideration as far as time and maintenance is grooming. Dogs like Irish Setters, Maltese, and Airedales require almost constant upkeep to maintain their beautiful coats. Short-haired breeds like Boxers, Basset Hounds, and Whippets require the occasional brush and bath, but are otherwise self-sufficient.

Do you have other pets? Some breeds have a highly developed prey drive and if you have other animals in the home, especially rodents, certain breeds will try to fetch them and present them to you as a gift. Greyhounds, terrier breeds, and retrievers are likely to display this behavior. However, any dog who is well socialized with other animals at a young age can learn to live with your other dog, cat, or even ferret or rabbit. Keep in mind that conditioning a more prey-driven breed to live with small animals is time consuming and requires dedication.

Is your dream dog a snuggle bug, or would you prefer a dog who likes to keep more to himself? Is your dog going to be by your side the majority of the time, or is he going to spend a lot of time alone? Some especially affectionate breeds who prefer to be with you as much as possible include the Newfoundland, the Otterhound, and the American Cocker Spaniel. Shar-Pei, Keeshonds, and Shiba Inu are more content with their alone time.

Are shedding or allergies an issue for you? Some people don’t mind vacuuming and having a lint roller on hand at all times, and others can’t be bothered, or have allergies which limit the amount of dander they can handle in the house. Those who can’t stand dog hair should stay away from Saint Bernards, Akitas, and Collies, and look towards Schnauzers, Basenjis, and the Chinese Crested.

What about expense? If you are on an extremely tight budget, remember that a big dog can eat like a horse. Small dogs will go through less food, and usually products for dogs such as clothing, crates, collars and beds are priced based on size. If you aren’t sure that you will be able to provide a constant supply of food, do not get a dog. But, if you are looking for a less expensive option than a Great Dane or Malamute, which can eat 5-8 cups of food every day, think about a miniature or toy breed, which will only eat up to 2 cups a day.

Remember that dogs are just like people, we inherit many physical features and aspects of our disposition from our parents, but we are all individuals too. There are aggressive Labs, energetic Bulldogs, and timid Rottweilers because every dog has a different personality, and so much of how dogs behave is a result of how they are raised, socialized, and trained. Use these ideas about choosing the right breed as a guideline, try to put out of your head picking a particular breed just because it is popular or cute, and don’t forget that proper care, training, and attention are important no matter what breed you choose.

Help! I Lost My Dog

t’s a beautiful afternoon, so you and your beloved dog are hanging out in your fenced-in back yard. You’re pulling weeds in the flower bed, and Rover is sniffing around the yard, looking for something to get into. After a while, by the heat of the midday sun, you’re reminded that you and Rover should both probably have some water, so you turn towards the house, calling your dog. But he doesn’t come. You call again, and there’s no dog in sight. Then you scream, your voice cracking, “Rover! Rover come!!!” But still there’s nothing. It seems as if Rover has disappeared into thin air, and panic begins to set in. What do you do?


Right Away

Take a deep breath; try to calm yourself so you can be as efficient and methodical as possible. Head out into the neighborhood. Does your dog have a pooch friend at a neighbor’s house, or a nearby park where he likes to run around? Check those places first. Take a bag or pocket full of your dog’s favorite treats and a picture of your dog. If he has a favorite toy, especially one that makes noise, bring that too. Also, bring a flash light, even if it is broad daylight, for checking dark nooks and crannies around the neighborhood. If your dog has a pooch sibling, leash your other dog and bring him or her along; this might help coax your dog out. If you get together with friends to let all your dogs play, have them bring their dogs out too; your dog won’t want to miss out on a chance to play with his friends.

Don’t waste any time, and try to cover as much ground as you can in as short an amount of time as possible. Call your local friends, neighbors and family to help you search, and try to be as organized as possible. Fan out, but do so in groups of at least two so everyone is safe. In the first two hours after your dog has disappeared, try to cover a two mile radius around where your dog was last seen. Be as noisy as possible, but don’t call your dog with your stern voice. Use your happy, fun-time voice as if everything is ok and you’re just trying to get your dog to come out and play. From time to time, as you call for your dog, stop and listen carefully. If your dog is stuck or hurt somewhere, he might respond to your calls with a bark, howl, or whimper.

While you’re searching, have a friend posted at your house in case he comes home; make sure someone searches your property carefully. Your dog could have shimmied his way into a storm drain, crawl space, or other tight, dark spot and gotten stuck. Have another friend call the local shelters, rescues, vets, animal control and police to let them know that your dog is lost. Have them offer a detailed description of your dog, including breed, age, sex, unique markings, health conditions, and anything else that makes your dog special. If you live near a county line, call the respective organizations in your neighboring county. Chances are, this early in the game, your dog probably hasn’t ended up at a shelter yet. However, letting local humane societies and rescue organizations know who you are and what your dog looks like before he shows up is important. If he does end up at a shelter, they’ll know he is a wanted, cared-for family pet and will keep him safe until they can reach you.

Show everyone you come across the picture of your dog and ask them if they’ll help you look. Kids are great for this kind of search, but try to talk to large groups or kids with their parents. Children are raised to be weary of the “help me look for my lost puppy” ploy. Put them at ease by asking them if they would mind getting their parents to help look too, or if they could just continue playing where they are and keep their eyes open for Rover.


After Sunset

As it gets too dark to further pursue your search, head home. Put your dog’s bed, some favorite toys and a few articles of clothing you have recently worn outside. Your dog might be drawn-in by the familiarity and comfort. If your neighborhood has a crime watch, call and describe your dog. Ask who’s on duty for the night and if they would mind keeping an eye out for Rover. Then, make a lost dog flyer. Include a color picture of your dog with a written description. Include where and when your dog was lost, his breed, sex, age, weight, color, some specific markings, and your phone number. Do not include a complete description of your dog’s unique markings. You will need to make sure that people who call and say they have your dog are telling the truth; so if your dog has all white feet with one black spot, leave that out for later identification.

If your dog is female, be sure to mention that she is spayed, even if she isn’t. This will dissuade dog thieves from being tempted to use her for breeding. Also mention that your dog is a “family pet.” First of all, this garners sympathy, and implies that your dog is healthy and well cared-for. Furthermore, mention of the fact that your dog is a show dog or something else that sounds fancy might encourage uncaring opportunists to either keep your dog or try to blackmail you for a huge reward. Do state that a reward will be provided for the safe return of your dog, but do not specify an amount. Include your phone number, but leave out your name and address for your own safety.

Make at least 200 copies of these flyers and place them at gas stations, on bulletin boards, at grocery stores, on poles by stop lights (where people will have time to read them) and anywhere there’s heavy foot traffic.

Place an ad in the newspaper as well.


As Time Goes By

Over the next couple of days, get your friends to help you rotate through all the local rescues, shelters, and humane societies. Take some flyers and ask if they will hang them up. Visit shelters further away than you might assume your dog has traveled. If someone picked your dog up, they may have driven him to the closest shelter of which they are aware, which could be further than you think. You or one of your friends should visit every local shelter every day. Do not rely on shelters to identify your dog, especially if he doesn’t have any remarkable markings. Also, if your dog is a specific breed, inquire with area rescues for that breed. Don’t forget to call local vets and emergency vets to see if anyone’s brought your dog there.

Read the dog found ads in the paper every day, and follow every lead that could possibly be your dog. It is better to build false hopes than to miss the chance to reclaim your dog out of fear of doing so. You can also register your dog with an online organization like Fido Finder, Pets911, or another dog lost and found website. For a fee, some sites will even call around to help you look for your dog.

It is a sad prospect, but you should also call the local Department of Transportation and Animal Control and ask if any dogs fitting your dog’s description have been killed on the roads since your dog went missing. This is a difficult phone call to make, and you might be told something you don’t want to hear, but at least you’ll know. If your dog has passed away, in the long run, it is better to know the truth so you can move on than it is to forever wonder if Rover might come back.

When you receive calls from people saying they found your dog, be weary. There are many bad people out there looking to take advantage of the vulnerable. Ask them questions they couldn’t possibly answer unless they’re looking right at your dog, and make sure they can’t be answered by looking at the picture on your flyer. If the story rings true, arrange to meet this person in a public place and bring a friend. Just because this stranger has your dog doesn’t mean they are safe to meet privately.

Bear in mind that a common scam consists of someone calling from another state saying they found your dog, then asking for money to pay to send him home. A few carefully chosen questions about your dog should flush out these scammers.

Once you find your dog, don’t forget to take the flyers down.

Puppy Proofing Your Home

here’s a lot to think about when you’re preparing for a new dog. There are many decisions and many preparations to be made. One of the most important things you can do for your new dog is make sure that your home is as safe as possible. We would all like to think that we can be completely attentive to Rover at all times; that he won’t get out of our sights, and we’ll be able to keep him out of trouble. The truth, however, is that Rover can sneak off and get into something dangerous before we even notice he’s gone. The best way to keep your pooch safe is to make sure your home is thoroughly puppy proofed.

Dogs and puppies do not have the luxury of hands to help them explore new environments, so they use their mouths. To get ready for a new puppy, use the same principal you would to prepare for a two year old in your home—If it fits in their mouth, they will probably try to put it there. Puppies can get into anything a toddler can, and more because some puppies are truly adept climbers. My Beagle can not only jump on the counters directly from the ground, he can also climb all the way to the top of the refrigerator.


All around the House

The first thing you can do to get an idea about what needs to change in your home to prepare for a new dog is get on “all fours”. It may seem silly, but this dog’s-eye-view will help you anticipate a lot of the doggie dangers in your house. In each room of your home, look from doggie-level for electrical cords, which should be tied out of the way, or run under covers along the corners of the room. Some dogs are eager to chew cords, and even if they don’t chew them, an excited dog running along can get tangled in cords and pull heavy machinery like TVs and DVD players down on top of them. From dog level, you can also see if there are any loose nails sticking out of walls or furniture that could catch a puppy as he runs by. Also, look for puppy-sized hiding places that can lead to trouble. Make sure you block access to the spaces behind your fridge, your washer and dryer, and behind any other machinery or large furniture. Dogs can get tangled in cords, can access dangerous heating elements, can get stuck, and sometimes will just hide out of reach. Make sure there are covers on all your air vents so little puppies can’t fall in or go exploring. From this low vantage point, you can also see if you have any houseplants within doggie reach. Many ornamental houseplants, including holly, irises, ivy, Easter lilies, oleander, and poinsettias (among many, many others) are poisonous to dogs. Consider removing these decorative plants from your home until your puppy is out of his chewing stage, or place them in hanging baskets out of reach.


Kitchen

As previously mentioned, it’s best to assume your dog is a truly talented climber, because you never know what he might be able to get into when you aren’t looking. Child locks are available anywhere that home supplies are sold, including most grocery stores. They are easy to install and inexpensive, so there’s no reason not to have them on every cabinet. Sure, placing child locks on the cabinets above the fridge is a little excessive if you have a Labrador or German Shepherd, but if you have a Beagle or other small, agile, problem-solving breed, access to these areas is fully within the realm of possibility. No matter what breed of dog you have, you should definitely have child locks on the cabinet under the sink if you store any kind of household chemicals therein. It’s ok to store the bleach, ammonia, and other cleaning products in your kitchen, as long as they are behind a sturdy child-locked cabinet door, and you are confident Rover won’t be able to break in.

You must also be mindful about leaving food out. Not only are foods like chocolate, chicken bones, onions, grapes and many more dangerous for your dog, but food on the counters also encourages counter surfing. When your dog jumps up on the counters and finds food, this is called a self rewarding behavior, which is extremely hard to train away. Most of us train our dogs with rewards, so if their bad behavior results in a delicious reward, how do we counteract that?

Also, make sure your trash can has a tight fitting lid or is in a closet or cabinet with a sturdy door. Dogs follow their nose to the yummy smells of last night’s leftovers in the garbage can, and can make a huge mess and make themselves sick if they get into the trash. A dog left to his own devices will eat every bit of foodstuff in the garbage, much of which can be poisonous, and all that eating can also result in a dangerous condition called Bloat. A small trash can under the sink behind a child lock is your best bet. These trash cans fill up fast, encouraging you to keep up with taking out the trash, which leaves less danger and temptation for your pooch. If you have a small dog like a Chihuahua, or a Yorkie, a large trash can with a tight lid will suffice, but owners of Great Danes, Poodles and other large dogs should consider the under-the cabinet method. I keep my trash can on top of my washing machine behind a large sliding door, and my Beagle gets closer every day to figuring out how to get to it.


Bathroom

The bathroom is another room in which child locks come in handy. If you store cleaning supplies or other chemical products under your bathroom sink, you should absolutely secure it shut with a child lock. You should also consider the climbing opportunities a bathroom offers. Think how easy it would be for a dog to jump on the toilet, jump from there to the sink, and from there, raid your medicine cabinet. Depending on your breed of dog, this may be more likely than you think. The plastic of pill bottles is satisfying to chew and they make enticing noises as the pills rattle about inside. Cut your dog off from this dangerous temptation with a child lock on your medicine cabinet door.

Also, it’s important to keep all toiletries and make up out of your dog’s reach. It is extremely convenient to keep the makeup and lotions you use every morning out on the sink, but they are too tempting for your dog. Maintain the convenience by having one small bag with your everyday necessities stashed in your locked medicine cabinet.

Toilet bowls are extremely tempting to dogs. They are a water bowl that is always full and a fun place to splash around and play. They are also a prime environment for bacterial growth, can hold dangerous chemicals, and can even be a drowning hazard. You should make sure that you and the rest of your family always keep the toilet lid shut. Just in case you forget, don’t use any of the in-tank style cleaners that keep chemicals in your toilet bowl. The best way to keep your pet out of trouble in the bathroom is to make it a habit to keep the bathroom door shut all-together.


Living Room and Bedroom

It may be nice for entertaining to have a candy dish or dish of mixed nuts out on your coffee table, but this is a huge hazard for your dog. Chocolate and macadamia nuts are both poisonous to dogs.

You also need to consider the fact that excited tails and knick knacks do not mix. This is another time when getting on all fours is beneficial. Any vases, lamps, and various knick knacks that are around tail height should be relocated to high shelves.

Crafty folks should take a look at their crafting areas and make sure that no trouble can be found there by a curious pup. Sewing kits are full of tempting, highly chewable spools of thread and dangerously small and sharp pins and needles. Also, many paints, glues, and other craft products can make your dog sick if ingested. Consider storing all your craft stuffs in large plastic tubs with secured tops, or in closets behind closed doors.

Those with children must be conscious of the chewability, and choking hazards associated with children’s toys. Make sure your kids keep their toys picked up, or that toys stay in children’s rooms behind closed doors.

Enticing, chewable possessions like shoes and belts should be kept put-away in closets out of puppies reach, or those expensive leather loafers will be one of Rovers new favorite toys before you know it.


The Garage

The safest plan as far as the garage is concerned is to make it off-limits to your dog. This is where most people store all kinds of dangerous products like motor oil, antifreeze, moth balls, cleaners, fertilizers, and pesticides. There are many dog, and generally environmentally safe products with which you can replace your fertilizers, cleaners, and pesticides. Nematodes spread on your lawn will kill fleas, and Nature’s Miracle Power Spray works as well, if not better, than dangerous chemical cleaners. However, you still have to worry about antifreeze, which has a sweet taste and smell that appeals to dogs, as well as sharp and dangerous tools and all sorts of other trouble your dog may find in the garage. It’s best to just never let your puppy in the garage without supervision.


In general, the best way to keep your pooch out of trouble at home is to make sure your house is neat, tidy, and uncluttered. Remember that no matter how well you puppy proof, puppies are curious, small and often quite agile, so constant supervision is still a must!